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athlete interviews, data articles, and training tips
from our team and community
BMI and Climbing Part 3, ALL 8a.nu Climbers
We’ve already written a few posts looking at BMI and climbing across a few different data sets, and now comes the final chapter! We’ve combined every single ascent logged on 8a.nu with
Are Hard Climbs Better? Part 2
In our previous post we looked at user ratings for ascents in the 8a.nu top 100 female/sport/boulder database. We missed an important detail though…when an ascent is logged a default rating of
8a.nu Climbers
In previous posts where we’ve looked at data from 8a.nu it’s always been from climbers in the top 100 rankings (female/sport/boulder). This gives us a nice snapshot of ‘elite’ climbers,
Are Hard Climbs Better?
[Update 13/10/2017: user NP pointed out an interesting issue with the below article in the comments. We’ve done a follow up in Are Hard Climbs Better? Part 2] Have you
BMI and Climbing Part 2, Elite Climbers
We’ve already looked at BMI in climbing a couple of times, first in our own data and secondly looking at an overview of some numbers from 8a.nu. Today we’re going to have
Open or half crimp for performance profiling in climbing?
We use maximal finger strength (as measured by a 5 sec. hang on a 20mm Lattice Edge) as a key data point in our performance profiling and when combined with
BMI and Climbing
It is well known that climbing (both bouldering and sport climbing) is a sport that is affected by power to weight ratios. The biggest factor that bodyweight affects is the
BMI in elite level climbers
Body weight in climbing is a hot topic of discussion and has been for a long time. It’s widely acknowledged that carefully controlled body fat composition can help in some
9c, Adam Ondra and Alex Megos
The big grade of 9c has officially landed! Adam Ondra has succeeded on his Flatanger Project Hard, undoubtedly the pinnacle of his climbing career to date. The 9c grade is
Milestone Grades
Every now and then we bump in to interesting little titbits in our data: milestone grades are one of these! In theory we would expect people’s best grades to follow some sort
Height in Climbing
Height has always been a contentious topic in climbing. And understandably so! There’s nothing quite so frustrating as watching someone reach past a move you’ve been struggling with for hours! But how
Interview: Lucy Mitchell on Fish Eye, 8c
Lucy Mitchell is a climber from Northern Ireland (Belfast) and unbeknownst to much of the UK climbing community, is racking up one of the most impressive sport tick lists by a UK female