Data
Load Scoring — How it Works
We discuss load scoring; what it means, how to measure it, and how it affects your training.
Women’s Training Symposium 2019
[Tom: Welcome to a special guest blog! We work with two climbers over in Germany, Mischa Hawker-Yates and Cora Schubert, who happen to go out
Research Discussion: Movement Economy
Lattice and The Beta Angel Project are at it again! This time, we decided to chat with Taylor about the research of climbing efficiency. This
Research Discussion: Eva Lopez-Rivera Finger Strength
After the great feedback we received from our recent community discussion on the Rate of Force Development (i.e. contact strength) with Taylor Reed from The
Research and Training Collaboration: Beta Angel Project
Recently we’ve been in touch with Taylor at the Beta Angel Project about a cross-collaboration. We’d noticed that he’s equally as psyched about climbing research as
The best sport climbers in the UK
Over the last few years the list-loving geeks over at ukbouldering.com have maintained a list of the top 100 or so British male sport climbers
Every Moonboard Problem Ever, Analysed
On today’s menu we have a special treat for you…we’re going to analyse every moon board problem ever created! I don’t really know what we’ll
Ben Moon’s Moonboard Logbook
If you know half of anything about the history of climbing you will have heard of Ben Moon; from world class first ascents such as Maginot
Can indoor climbers do slabs?
There’s a common stereotype that climbers who spend a lot of their time indoors lack the finesse of climbers who spend more time outdoors, but is
Do strength imbalances make a difference in climbing? Part 1
We were thinking about left-right hand strength imbalances recently and instead of asking all the questions ourselves we thought it would be fun to put it
BMI and Climbing Part 3, ALL 8a.nu Climbers
We’ve already written a few posts looking at BMI and climbing across a few different data sets, and now comes the final chapter! We’ve combined every
Are Hard Climbs Better? Part 2
In our previous post we looked at user ratings for ascents in the 8a.nu top 100 female/sport/boulder database. We missed an important detail though…when an ascent is
8a.nu Climbers
In previous posts where we’ve looked at data from 8a.nu it’s always been from climbers in the top 100 rankings (female/sport/boulder). This gives us a
Are Hard Climbs Better?
[Update 13/10/2017: user NP pointed out an interesting issue with the below article in the comments. We’ve done a follow up in Are Hard Climbs
BMI and Climbing Part 2, Elite Climbers
We’ve already looked at BMI in climbing a couple of times, first in our own data and secondly looking at an overview of some numbers from 8a.nu.
Open or half crimp for performance profiling in climbing?
We use maximal finger strength (as measured by a 5 sec. hang on a 20mm Lattice Edge) as a key data point in our performance
BMI and Climbing
It is well known that climbing (both bouldering and sport climbing) is a sport that is affected by power to weight ratios. The biggest factor
BMI in elite level climbers
Body weight in climbing is a hot topic of discussion and has been for a long time. It’s widely acknowledged that carefully controlled body fat
9c, Adam Ondra and Alex Megos
The big grade of 9c has officially landed! Adam Ondra has succeeded on his Flatanger Project Hard, undoubtedly the pinnacle of his climbing career to
Milestone Grades
Every now and then we bump in to interesting little titbits in our data: milestone grades are one of these! In theory we would expect people’s
Height in Climbing
Height has always been a contentious topic in climbing. And understandably so! There’s nothing quite so frustrating as watching someone reach past a move you’ve been struggling
Adam Ondra: By the Numbers
I think most people would agree that Adam Ondra has a fairly respectable ticklist, but just how good is it? We thought it’d be interesting to
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