Female Athletes and Urinary Incontinence By Maddy Cope Performing high level sport has been shown to be strongly associated with urinay incontinence (UI) in female athletes. UI is the involuntary loss of urine by either stress (think sneezing, laughing or impact) or urge (think suddenly and desperately needing to wee). Our ability to control this […]
Structuring your Training during a Peak Phase by Jon Procter So you’re well into your peak season and you’re getting out on rock as often as possible. But how should you structure your training during this time and is it still possible to make gains…? 1 – Don’t overdo it. If you’re climbing outdoors every […]
By Maddy Cope Menstrual pain or cramps are a common symptom just before or during menstruation. For obvious reasons, this can have a negative effect on climbing and training. Menstrual cramps can be distracting, can make wearing a harness or weight belt uncomfortable, or can be so bad that we literally don’t want to get […]
Setting Training Goals | Part 2 – By Maddy Cope Catch up on Part 1 HERE Setting Training Goals Click Here For those reading from the northern hemisphere, the summer is finally here (yay)! As we look to get out climbing more, our training goals might seem like a thing of the past. Instead, we […]
Late Lutael Phase, PMS & Tracking By Maddy Cope The late luteal phase is the phase we often associate with PMS symptoms, and can be framed as the “lesser” phase when it comes to performance. Tracking is a great way to understand how we feel during this phase BUT, this doesn’t mean we should let […]
The Dreaded ‘F’ Word in Climbing – FEAR by Tom Hill The dreaded “F” word in climbing: Fear. We know that fear can impact our performances, but it’s grip is so powerful that it can even affect the decisions we make far away from the wall, stifling progress before we’ve even touched a hold on […]
By Mina Leslie-Wujastyk Breast motion was first documented in the 1970s by Dr Christine Haycock. Her research was in response to an increase in female participation in sports, where exercise-induced breast pain was identified as problematic. Unsurprisingly, increased “breast bounce” (displacement) was found to be associated with increased breast pain. It sounds obvious to say […]
Eliminates, Execution Practise & Projecting By Jen Wood A lot of us get to the stage where we’ve done all the climbs we feel we can at the wall and psyche is running low for a siege on the really hard stuff. But there are a few ways we can squeeze a bit more out […]
Training for an Outdoor Peak Period of Performance by Oli Grounsell For many of us, when the good weather arrives, we want to climb outside for as long as possible, and preferably perform in this time as well. However, building to this sort of peak period may look quite a bit different from a two […]
Part 1 | What? By Josh Hadley Flexibility is the ability to move through a range of motion and is an essential motor ability for any movement. In the context of flexibility development, we usually refer to increasing the range of motion around a joint that is limited by the muscle. This does not include […]