Finding Balance: Melissa Le Nevé on Climbing, Training, and Dreamtime 8C
In this episode, Lattice coach Ella Russell chats with climbing icon Melissa Le Nevé to dive into her incredible journey from competition success to legendary outdoor ascents. Melissa shares her experiences, from claiming the first female ascent of the iconic Action Direct (9a / 5.14d) in the Frankenjura to her current project on the historic Dreamtime (8C / V15) in Ticino.
They explore Melissa’s unique approach to training, including her recent gains in finger strength, her passion for combining climbing with paragliding, and how she balances bouldering, sport climbing, and multi-pitch routes like Le Voyage (E10 7a) and Delicatessen (8b / 5.13d). Whether you’re seeking training inspiration or simply love hearing from the greats, this episode offers something for everyone.
Key Takeaways
- Melissa’s transition from competitions to iconic outdoor challenges.
- Behind the scenes of her first female ascent of Action Direct and her ongoing work on Dreamtime.
- The difference between French and British training approaches and how Melissa saw surprising finger strength gains.
- How paragliding complements her climbing lifestyle.
- Her plans for future projects, including Biography (9a+ / 5.15a) and Bon Voyage (9a E12).
Don’t miss this epic episode! Listen now on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or your favourite podcast platform.
