Here in the UK, Autumn feels just around the corner. And with the cooler temperatures comes climbing season, especially bouldering.

We’re psyched to get out to the crag more regularly, maybe check out the proj that we’ve been training for, however, we also want to keep up some training to stay in good shape.

Here’s 4 simple guidelines to balance training and rock climbing:

1. Know your priorities

This completely dictates the balance you strike.

Are you trying to perform? Or just getting out to enjoy the weather and have a quality time? Or somewhere in between? Clearing up your priorities makes the decision simple.

2. Be flexible

If getting outside is your priority, then don’t be beholden to a training session. It’s okay to drop a session if it aligns with your objective, which is getting out climbing.

Likewise, if your priority is improving, then get that session done and accept that you might be a little tired when climbing.

3. Focus on low impact exercises

Some training is much easier to balance than others.

If you want to feel good for the rock, then trying to do high volume aero power or anaerobic capacity is going to be tough. Whereas stretching, fingerboarding and small muscle group conditioning will be much easier to manage.

4. Be conscious of intensity and duration

You can still push hard in training whilst aiming to perform outside, you just need to be honest with yourself on how much you exert yourself in workouts.

If intensity is high then keep it short, and avoid heavier sessions within ~48 hours of when you are getting outside.

Do you have any tips for balancing training with climbing outside?

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Photo credit: Sam Pratt