Jana Švecová makes first ascent of ‘Tokyo Drift’ (8C/V15), her second FA of the grade
On March 28, 2026, 28-year-old Czech boulderer Jana Švecová made the first ascent of Tokyo Drift at the Lidomorna crag in the Moravian Karst, Czechia. Suggesting the grade of 8C (V15), Jana has not only completed her hardest problem to date but has also further solidified her status as one of the strongest boulderers of all time, with Tokyo Drift being suspected as the hardest first ascent by a woman in history.
The Line: Tokyo Drift (8C/V15)
Tokyo Drift shares its start and finish with Adam Ondra’s established line, Drift (8C/V15). However, Jana discovered a more direct path. As Jana explained in an interview with 8a.nu:
“Directly above the starting hold, there’s a seemingly blank section of rock that you cycle around from the left [in Drift]… I thought going straight up through the biggest overhang should somehow be possible. To my surprise, I could use those footholds, skip the entire detour, and reach the crux of Drift about three moves faster. It’s roughly a 60-degree overhang.”
The result is a line that is less about power-endurance but far more cruxy. The problem concludes on a notoriously sandbagged 7B+ (V8/9) classic slab, which Jana describes as the “real redpoint crux” that makes the climb a “complex and fun” challenge.
Historical Context: A Record-Breaking First Ascent?
According to the Women’s First Ascents list at climbing-history.org, Švecová is establishing a unique legacy. She is one of the very few women globally to have established two first ascents at the 8C/V15 grade.
- Nova (8C/V15): Established by Švecová in 2023. Originally suggested at 8B+, the grade was later confirmed as 8C by repeaters like Will Bosi.
- Tokyo Drift (8C/V15): Her second major 8C FA, making her a dominant force on the historical list of female first ascents.
Currently, climbing-history.org ranks her as the #2 strongest female boulderer in the world, tied with Janja Garnbret and positioned just behind Katie Lamb (8C+/V16).
The Journey to the Send
“I started trying Tokyo last year as a side project while projecting Terranova (8C+/V15). I tried it in my best shape ever – around the time I thought I could send Terranova and when I did Mild Abuse of Terminology (8B+/V14) pretty quickly. I just felt really strong. I did all the moves in my first session, but even after 3-4 sessions, the thought of sending – or even linking the first five moves – felt insane. Then the finger injuries came, and the year was over…”
“Mentally, I felt really down. For the second year in a row, I got injured in my best shape… That year felt long, and the way back felt endless. I started doubting whether I could ever get back into shape and try hard again.”
In November 2025, after a month of training and rehab, she headed to Switzerland, hoping to get in volume on the rock:
“I thought I’d climb 8As every day and just get volume in. In the end, I was happy to get just two 8As in the whole month, but I did get the volume. I climbed so many amazing easier boulders. It was a great trip, but also quite shocking how weak I felt.”
However, after a rigorous winter training block written by her coach here at Lattice, Cam Hartley, and a successful second trip to Switzerland, Jana returned to Czechia psyched to get back on the project. In the end, she completed Tokyo Drift in a total of 10 sessions (6 in the final 2026 block).
Ascent Details & Conditions
Jana described the challenging conditions and the physical battle of the send in her own words:
“The temp was 5 degrees celsius which is almost unimaginable for me to climb and extremely windy. I had to readjust most of the holds and even had a foot slip but the desire to send this boulder this go, this session, was bigger than any slip and wrongly hit hold. I fell on the top-out three times… my fingers were completely numb and I just dry/cold fired off. I managed to overcome the numbness and cold fingers and finish it after a huge fight.”
Community & Forum Reactions
On the UKB forum, the British community has praised the ascent on the “minging lime grot” of the Moravian Karst, with many noting that the style of the crag is notoriously powerful and technical. There is ongoing speculation about a potential repeat by Czech local Adam Ondra or international climbers like Will Bosi.
Looking into the Future
While Tokyo Drift is a monumental achievement, Švecová has stated that it is simply a “side project.” Her primary objective continues to be the first repeat of Adam Ondra’s unrepeated Terranova (8C+/V16).
In response to the ascent, Jana’s Lattice coach Cam said: “[Jana has worked] really hard to be in this position. I have a good feeling about 2026.”
On the overall experience, Jana said:
“Today was the best day of my climbing career. The send was so unexpected, not because I wouldn’t be close in terms of highpoint, but because of the conditions and other circumstances.”
A full video documenting the emotional finish of Tokyo Drift is expected to be released on her YouTube channel soon.
Jana’s original post on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/p/DWcDTzeDaFx/?img_index=1
8a.nu interview: https://www.8a.nu/news/jana-svecova-fas-tokyo-drift-8c
Exclusive interview with Jana (Training for Tokyo Drift): read the article.
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