Research & Data
Research Discussion: Movement Economy
Lattice and The Beta Angel Project are at it again! This time, we decided to chat with Taylor about the research of climbing efficiency. This…
December 7th, 2018
Read more >Finger Strength | Research & Data
Research Discussion: Eva Lopez-Rivera Finger Strength
After the great feedback we received from our recent community discussion on the Rate of Force Development (i.e. contact strength) with Taylor Reed from The…
November 21st, 2018
Read more >Finger Strength | Research & Data
Research and Training Collaboration: Beta Angel Project
Recently we’ve been in touch with Taylor at the Beta Angel Project about a cross-collaboration. We’d noticed that he’s equally as psyched about climbing research as…
November 8th, 2018
Read more >Research & Data
The best sport climbers in the UK
Over the last few years the list-loving geeks over at ukbouldering.com have maintained a list of the top 100 or so British male sport climbers…
August 30th, 2018
Read more >Research & Data | Strength & Power
Every Moonboard Problem Ever, Analysed
On today’s menu we have a special treat for you…we’re going to analyse every moon board problem ever created! I don’t really know what we’ll…
January 26th, 2018
Read more >Research & Data | Strength & Power
Ben Moon’s Moonboard Logbook
If you know half of anything about the history of climbing you will have heard of Ben Moon; from world class first ascents such as Maginot…
January 5th, 2018
Read more >Research & Data
Can indoor climbers do slabs?
There’s a common stereotype that climbers who spend a lot of their time indoors lack the finesse of climbers who spend more time outdoors, but is…
December 11th, 2017
Read more >Finger Strength | Research & Data | Strength & Power
Do strength imbalances make a difference in climbing? Part 1
We were thinking about left-right hand strength imbalances recently and instead of asking all the questions ourselves we thought it would be fun to put it…
November 8th, 2017
Read more >Nutrition | Research & Data
BMI and Climbing Part 3, ALL 8a.nu Climbers
We’ve already written a few posts looking at BMI and climbing across a few different data sets, and now comes the final chapter! We’ve combined every…
October 30th, 2017
Read more >Research & Data
Are Hard Climbs Better? Part 2
In our previous post we looked at user ratings for ascents in the 8a.nu top 100 female/sport/boulder database. We missed an important detail though…when an ascent is…
October 13th, 2017
Read more >