2 Arm Finger Strength Protocol

This testing session is designed to assess finger strength using a 2 arm dead-hang protocol.

You should use this session before and after several weeks or months of training to measure the effectiveness of your training. Results from this session also provide an excellent baseline from which to calculate the intensities of other sessions, such as max hangs and 50% aerobic power repeaters.

Complete this session after at least 24 hours of rest. Remember to warm up thoroughly before starting this session and warm up your fingers specifically for the hold size and grip position used in testing.


Complete up to 8 sets of progressively heavier hangs until you reach a maximum score.

Each hang must follow the rules below;

  • Hang from 2 arms at the same time
  • Each hang must last a full 7 seconds
  • Your arms should be straight or bent slightly. Do not lock off at 90 degrees.

A max score is the highest load completed for the set time staying in the same grip position. Once the load is too high for you to complete a full 7 second hang in a half crimp position. you have reached failure.

If you cannot complete this session hanging with body weight alone, remove weight from your body by using a pulley system and counterweight To add load to your body, hang additional weight from a climbing harness.

Recording your score

Maximal total loading (1RM) = Body weight + additional weight

Maximal body weight % = (Total load / bodyweight) x 100.

For example; 
80kg (total load) = 70kg (body weight) + 10kg (max load)
114.3% (body weight %) = 80kg (total load) / 70kg (body weight)