This testing session is designed to assess finger strength using a 2 arm dead-hang protocol.
You should use this session before and after several weeks or months of training to measure the effectiveness of your training. Results from this session also provide an excellent baseline from which to calculate the intensities of other sessions, such as max hangs and 50% aerobic power repeaters.
Complete this session after at least 24 hours of rest. Remember to warm up thoroughly before starting this session and warm up your fingers specifically for the hold size and grip position used in testing.
Complete up to 8 sets of progressively heavier hangs until you reach a maximum score.
Each hang must follow the rules below;
A max score is the highest load completed for the set time staying in the same grip position. Once the load is too high for you to complete a full 7 second hang in a half crimp position. you have reached failure.
If you cannot complete this session hanging with body weight alone, remove weight from your body by using a pulley system and counterweight To add load to your body, hang additional weight from a climbing harness.
Maximal total loading (1RM) = Body weight + additional weight
Maximal body weight % = (Total load / bodyweight) x 100.
80kg (total load) = 70kg (body weight) + 10kg (max load)
114.3% (body weight %) = 80kg (total load) / 70kg (body weight)
Any maximal testing session includes some form of risk. Please follow the rules below to reduce the risk of injury and seek advice from a professional coach if you are unsure how to perform this testing safely.