Training with Injuries by Maddy Cope

Injuries are frustrating but for many of us they are inevitable! Many injuries require some time away from climbing, so with that in mind how can look to stay motivated and maintain strength during this period?

Finger injuries are some of the most common injuries in climbing, so what can we focus on if we have to have a rest period for our grip? 

1 – Work on core!

Core is so important for distributing load throughout our bodies. Given that coming back from finger injuries our grip will be detrained this is a useful training element to push. There are lots of exercises that don’t require gripping a bar if that is probamatic for the injured finger.

Stability style floor core with an exercise ball, prone TRX exercises and hip thrusts have been the ones I have enjoyed! TRX is great as it combines both our core and shoulders.

2 – Grip training on the uninjured side.

This can help maintain grip strength on the injured side as well, potentially due to neuroloical effects. It is useful to focus on a variety of grips during a period away from climbing, as we are not getting variety from climbing itself. I have found doing lower intensity but more frequent sessions motivating (like greasing the groove) as it keeps me busy and is easy to warm up for without being able to climb.

3 – Set a goal outside of climbing.

For longer periods away from climbing it is useful to find something else that you enjoy! Setting a goal to works towards over the period of recovery is a great way to stay positive. This helps us to focus on what we can do, rather than what we can’t! I have set myself a local running goal alongside maintaining some elements of training that will help me in my return to climbing.

maddy

~ Maddy Cope