Sadly, we can’t all be blessed with world-class training facilities with every different type of hold and wall angle (or 3D prints of our projects!).

But that doesn’t mean you can’t make the most of what is available to you! After all, training at the most amazing gym in the world won’t guarantee that you will send your project. 

Here’s some tips on how to make the most of a sub-optimal training facilities to help you send your projects.

1. Don’t just follow the colours

When you’re training, don’t feel like you can only use one colour on the wall.

It’s likely that even at the biggest gyms these days you will only find a few climbs that are the right difficulty or style to help you prepare for your project.

Try adding in an extra foot on a climb that is too hard for you… or substituting a hand hold for a slightly worse one on a climb you have already sent. Get more out of what is on the wall!

2. Work on your execution

You’ve reached the point in the current set where you’ve done everything you can do. Everything you have left is too hard/reachy/not your style, etc.

Now is a great time to repeat climbs, but this time, do them better!

Make this more of a challenge by seeing how many climbs you can repeat on your first attempt in a session. This will really help your focus and make sure that every time you pull on you are making the most of your efforts.

3. Work your anti-style

There is usually more than one way to do a move or climb. Try exploring how many different ways you can do a single climb.

Not only will this keep the session interesting, but it will challenge your climbing movement in your less preferred style. It’ll push you to develop creative solutions for moves, which will help with your problem solving skills when climbing outside or in a comp.

Conclusion: How to make the most of your training facilities

By not restricting yourself to the set climb and modifying blocs to add/takeaway hand or footholds, you can make sure you’re hitting the correct training stimulus, regardless of what climbs your gym has set. You can improve your technique by repeating climbs and, by focusing on the style you struggle with and finding interesting, varied ways to execute climbs, you can continue to improve even after you’ve sent everything you can.

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