From Home Training -> Back to the Gym by Josh Hadley

For many of us in the UK we are looking forward to the climbing gyms opening up or more freedom to travel to climbing destinations. Making now, the perfect time to take a moment to consider how to make the best transition from home training back to the crag and/or gym.

Here are 3 of the biggest mistakes I commonly see as a coach, and admittedly, have made myself – when making this transition 

1. DON’T JUMP STRAIGHT INTO PROJECTS 

This is important for two reasons… First, the change in environment brings loads of new stimulus and stress to the body such as more aggressive holds, more dynamic movement, longer days/sessions. Be really considerate of this because the last thing you want is to get an injury at the beginning of your climbing season. Build up gradually with short sessions, longer rests and starting with easy climbs, let your projects wait a few weeks at least!

Secondly, work on mileage and find your feet again. You’ll need to relearn the intricacies of movement again and this will come from time on the wall. If you skip this step you may fumble quickly on your projects and not be able to put your home training gains to good use.

2. DON’T SKIP THE WARM-UP 

Do you think you might get over-excited when you first get in the gym or arrive at the crag? If yes, don’t forget a good warm-up will reduce your risk of injury and improve your performance.

3. DON’T GET FRUSTRATED 

Chances are you won’t hit the ground running even if you’ve been making PB’s on the fingerboard. After all, climbing is far more than just the physical things we can measure. Give yourself time to re-learn the skills and tactics that you haven’t used in months. This will take time so be patient and kind to yourself.

josh

~ Josh Hadley