Common Mistakes For Endurance Training: With Tom Randall
In part one of this podcast, Tom Randall talks about the “Intensity” aspect of endurance training and how high, moderate and low intensity work affects the outcomes in technical, psychological and physical performance or adaptation.
Low intensity endurance examples: Continuity or ARC training
Moderate intensity endurance examples: 50:50s or Polarised Continuity
High intensity endurance examples: 1 On 1 Off or 2 On 1 Off
- Speed and pace of climbing.
- Playing to your personal technical strengths, not working weaknesses
- Good at trying when fresh, but not when fatigued
- Low or high ‘suffering’ thresholds
- Time spent working on ‘flow’ and ‘highly efficient and relaxed’ climbing
- Neurological e.g. de-recruitment training stimulus
- Structural e.g. hypertrophy or vascularisation
- Metabolic e.g. muscle enzyme activity
In part two of this podcast, Tom talks about the “Style” aspect of endurance training which encompasses both grip types and terrain angle. Both of these factors in your endurance training will affect the outcomes in technical, psychological and physical performance or adaptation.
Main grip types you want to consider: Micro edges (less than 10mm), Mid-sized edge (20-30mm), Pinches, Slopers, big open holds and pockets
Main terrain angles to train on: Slab, vertical, steep up to 30 degrees, steep 30-60 degrees 🟢 Roof
- Lack of skill or technique in using particular grip types. Finger, hand and wrist positioning as well as body position especially with things like slopers etc.
- Lack of movement efficiency appropriate to the terrain angle. Movement on a slab is not the same as a 45 degree wall!
- Low skill set in hold-specific or angle-specific rests.
- Under developed technique in pacing for particular terrain angles.
- Not enough familiarity or exposure to specific holds or angles. Impacts confidence, anxiety levels and state management.
- Likelihood of lower onsight ability that fitness or technical ability should dictate.
- Problem solving skills for terrain type underdeveloped. Will affect onsight and redpoint grade.
- Terrain-specific mobility/flexibility and also finger-hand-wrist-forearm ROM appropriate to grip type.
- Focusing volume of training on the wrong terrain type will under-develop the muscle groups specific (and limiting) to the terrain you do want to perform on.