Setting Training Goals | Part 2 - By Maddy Cope

Catch up on Part 1 HERE

Setting Training Goals

For those reading from the northern hemisphere, the summer is finally here (yay)! As we look to get out climbing more, our training goals might seem like a thing of the past. Instead, we shift our attention to climbing goals.

Training goals should be set with our climbing goals in mind so that the physical attributes we develop through training transfer. So should we just shift our attention to the crag, or is there something to learn by reflecting on our training goals?

1- Training goals check-in.

Training goals are useful for motivation because they can be chosen to suit climbing goals and are measurable, but checking in with the progress we made also allows us to reflect on the training protocols chosen. There are many approaches to training the same thing and it is useful to reflect on progress made to inform future training.

2- Climbing goals check-in.
 
As we have already said, training goals are often a useful tool as a stepping stone towards climbing goals. We look to set them in areas that will benefit a specific project or style of climbing.
 
After some time getting acquainted with rock (it is not necessarily best to analyse whether your training has translated to the rock in the first few sessions!), take some time to check in with how the physical attributes focused on in training have translated.
 
Bringing attention to this may even help us translate the strength by providing focus and/or cues. If you found any cues useful in training, they may be useful on the rock as they are well practised!

~ Photo by Stefan Patrick Morris

3- Be flexible & adapt.

Training and climbing don’t always go to plan, this could be due to injuries or travel restrictions. We may work towards training goals and not get the chance to translate it to the climbing we had in mind!

The 1st thing to remember is that gains made during training are not lost straight away, & are easier to maintain compared to the time put in to get there.

Be creative and look for ways to maintain your training gains – the chance to try your climbing goal may still come around!

Look for new goals that you can still work towards even with injury or restrictions. Maintaining a positive mindset is important and incorporating gratitude & reflection practices can be helpful.

~ Photo by Ollie Torr

To give you an example of how you can reflect in a constructive way, here is what I have considered after setting my goals in part 1 back in December. 

1) 4 laps of the ‘indoor crack’… I was training this element in the hope of travelling to Italy to crack climb. I achieved this training goal, but climbing wise it simply isn’t possible to travel to Italy for me this year (Covid restrictions). 

2) Assisted front lever… I achieved this goal and saw really good progression using assisted front levers, reducing the assistance as I progress, so I will look to use this in the future to continue to build on this strength.

This was also to contribute to roof crack climbing. Since travelling for this wasn’t possible I found a local boulder problem that needed this physical attribute and was happy to see lots of improvements… excited to have this as a new goal!

Play Video

3) Complete a 10 second 2 arm hang with +20 kg in half crimp…

I achieved this and given that finger strength is hard earnt for me I am psyched to find a method that worked for me!

Unfortunately I injured my finger and now I am having to rehab and have had a period off climbing. Obviously, this means working towards my initial climbing goals is put on hold! I am looking to maintain the body strength I gained and have set a running goal as something I can work towards outside!

Each day I focus on the things I can do and remember how they play into my long term climbing goals!

Thanks for reading this 2 part series, I hope you have found these tips, tricks and hints useful in setting your own goals. Remember that we can help you set S.M.A.R.T goals for your own climbing and training if you opt for 1:1 coaching via a Lattice Performance Planget in touch today to see how we can help!

~ Maddy Cope