Board Climbing for Training: How to Set Problems
Board climbing is a valuable training resource, but it can also be problematic if you lack confidence in setting your own boulders.
Here are 4 simple tips to help you get to grips with setting on a board:
1. Training Stimulus
Set the intention. If training strength and power, ensure that the difficulty of the moves is high. Don’t shy away from moves that feel impossible at first.
If training power endurance, set boulders that are sustained and challenging. Avoid moves that are high risk and could result in a fall due to human error, as opposed to fatigue.
Work your weaknesses and set boulders that are aligned with your climbing and performance goals.
Improve specificity by consciously incorporating grip types/moves into your boulders.
If the crux section of your project has a left hand full crimp to a high-angled gaston for the right, this sequence can form the central component of your boulder. You can build from there.
You don’t need to 3D copy the holds for your replica to improve your confidence in that grip type or style of move.
Depending on your level of experience, it’s important to diversify the types of holds/moves that you incorporate. You may have hold types that you prefer using and use often, but expanding your portfolio will help you to become a more well-rounded climber and help to prevent overuse injuries.
A great way to do this is by asking SOMEBODY ELSE to set you a boulder that works your weaknesses.
The footholds you select are equally important. Don’t rush this part of the process.
If your goal is to improve finger strength, but you’re relatively new to board climbing, try using larger footholds.
If you’d like to train finger strength and place higher demands on the muscles of the trunk, consider using small, directional footholds that are spaced from your hands.
What If I get it Wrong?
Don’t be afraid of getting it wrong.
Worst case scenario, you end up setting a problem that is lost to the ether of cyberspace. And you never know, you may surprise yourself and end up setting a three star classic of the board!
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